wiley oakley
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Origins of the Trails in the Great Smoky Mountains

Thursday, December 1, 2011

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There are roughly 850 miles of hiking trails in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. There’s also a lot of history underneath those trails we walk along today. How were these trails established? Who blazed them, and why?

Some of the earliest trails in what would become the national park were simple game trails, created by migrating bison, elk, and other large animals. Many of these were later adapted by the Indians in the area. The Cherokee used these established routes for trading with other tribes, and for reaching favored hunting grounds.

Over the years, with the steady encroachment of white settlers, many of the old Indian pathways were converted into stock trails and wagon roads. By the late 1800’s, big lumber companies were converting Indian trails into logging roads and railroads to help with the harvest and transport of timber.

A few of these old settler roads eventually became the hiking trails we use today. If you hike along the Old Sugarlands Trail, the Little River Trail or the Meigs Mountain Trail, you’ll be walking on some of the same roads used by the pioneers and homesteaders of this area.

Some of the footpaths we use today were blazed by one pioneer in particular.

Wiley Oakley, also known as the “Roamin Man of the Mountains”, was born in 1885 at the base of Mount LeConte. Tragically, his mother died when he was a young boy. To help deal with his grief he began wandering the hollows and mountains near his home. Reflecting back as an older man, he spoke of how he would try to climb the highest peaks to see if he could catch a glimpse of her in heaven.

As he grew older, Wiley’s responsibilities also grew. At sill a relatively young age he began helping the family with hunting and fishing duties. It was during this time that he spent “roamin” and hunting that he was discovering the unique features of the mountains and was even blazing his own footpaths. Eventually he became a hunting and fishing guide, and gained such a renowned reputation that he was soon guiding politicians, celebrities and businessmen from all over the country, including Henry Ford.

During the Park’s formation, Wiley became a major consultant and was called on by surveyors to help determine Park boundaries. Some of those paths he blazed earlier in his life eventually became official park trails.

Another early explorer by the name of Paul Adams is credited with blazing the trail from Alum Cave to Mount LeConte, as well as for helping to establish the famous lodge atop that same mountain.

Adams, an avid hiker, joined the Great Smoky Mountain Conservation Association in 1924, a group dedicated to making the Smoky Mountains into a national park. Later that same year Adams led an expedition to the top of Mount LeConte for the purpose of showing Washington dignitaries the rugged beauty of the Smoky Mountains, and to help promote the cause for national park status. The delegation spent the night in a large tent. The following year Adams would build a cabin on that same spot which eventually led to the establishment of the LeConte Lodge.

Although many trails in the Smoky Mountains follow all or parts of the routes developed by migrating animals, Indians, pioneers and explorers, the majority of trails still in use today were developed by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC).

The CCC was a work relief program established in 1933 by President Franklin D. Roosevelt. As part of Roosevelt’s New Deal legislation, the CCC was created to combat unemployment during the Great Depression. Between 1933 and 1942, the CCC used 4000 men to build trails, campgrounds, bridges and ranger stations in the Smokies.

Some of the trails built by the CCC include Bullhead, Alum Cave, Kephart Prong, Maddron Bald, Sweat Heifer and Sugarland Mountain.

Since the early days of the Park, various hiking clubs have worked to improve the original CCC trails, and in some cases, construct new ones. One of those pathways, the granddaddy of all trails, was the Appalachian Trail.

The Appalachian Trail, also known as the AT, runs for more than 70 miles through Great Smoky Mountains National Park, entering from the north at Davenport Gap and exiting in the south near Fontana Dam. The highest point anywhere along the 2175-mile trail is at Clingmans Dome (6625 ft.). The trail also passes by other notable landmarks in the Smokies such as Charlies Bunion, Rocky Top and the historic stone fire tower atop Mt. Cammerer.

Although the AT was the brainchild of Benton MacKaye, cofounder of The Wilderness Society, it was Harvey Broome and Paul Fink that made it become a reality in the Smokies.

Harvey Broome was an early environmentalist, another one of the cofounders of The Wilderness Society, and a longtime president of the Smoky Mountains Hiking Club. He, along with seven others, hiked the 70+ miles of AT through the Park in 1932 before the trail was completed. He was largely responsible for sighting most of the AT thru the Park.

Paul Fink, another leader of the movement that led to the founding of the national park, was also instrumental in blazing the AT through the Smokies. Fink was a member of the Board of Managers of the Appalachian Trail from 1925 to 1949, and was the author of “Backpacking Was the Only Way”, an account of early 20th century camping and backpacking adventures in the southern Appalachians.

Over the years, the Park has closed certain trails for various reasons. In the future, it’s likely that other trails will be closed and new ones will be created, demonstrating that the park isn’t static, but a park that continues to evolve.




Hiking Great Smoky Mountains National Park, by Kevin Adams, covers 80 hikes in the Smokies, and includes photos, trail maps, elevation profiles, and quick reference trail highlights.







Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com
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The Voice of Wiley Oakley

Sunday, February 27, 2011

2 comments
If you're at all familiar with the Great Smoky Mountains, you're probably at least somewhat familiar with the name of Wiley Oakley. There are numerous place names and roads in the Gatlinburg area that honor Mr. Oakley, as well as a plaque at the Gatlinburg Welcome Center. Also, just this past September, the Tennessee Association of Convention & Visitors Bureaus handed out the very first Wiley Oakley Tourism Award.

Simply put, Wiley Oakley was synonymous with the Great Smoky Mountains, prior to establishment, and during the early years as a National Park. Some have even described him as an icon of the Smokies.

Oakley, also known as the “Roamin Man of the Mountains”, was born in 1885 at the base of Mount LeConte. Tragically his mother died when he was a young boy, and to help deal with his grief, he began wandering the hollows and mountains near his home. Reflecting back as an older man, he spoke of how he would try to climb the highest peaks to see if he could catch a glimpse of her in heaven.

As he grew older, Wiley’s responsibilities also grew. At sill a relatively young age he began helping the family with hunting and fishing duties. It was during this time that he spent “roamin” and hunting that he was discovering the unique features of the mountains, and was even blazing his own footpaths. Eventually he became a hunting and fishing guide, and gained such a renowned reputation that he was soon guiding politicians, celebrities and businessmen from all over the country, including Henry Ford, Ernie Pyle and Kate Smith.

During the Park’s formation Wiley became a major consultant, and was even called on by surveyors to help determine the Park's boundaries.

During his lifetime, Oakley was a hunter, fisherman, farmer, merchant, developer, professional guide, botanist, artist, musician, yodeler, author, columnist, broadcaster, poet and story-teller. In fact, it was his abilities to spin tales about the Smokies that gained him national attention. His popularity earned him a nickname as the "Will Rogers of the South," and was a popular radio guest in his day.

To get a little bit better understanding of Oakley's abilities as a story-teller, take a listen to a couple of short radio clips from the late 1920s that have been posted on the English Department of the University of South Carolina's website. It's pretty obvious that Wiley had a lot of down-home charm and charisma.

To learn more about Mr. Oakley, the Tennessee History Classroom website has a short, but a pretty good biography on him.


Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com
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Origins of the Hiking Trails in the Smoky Mountains

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

No comments
There are roughly 850 miles of hiking trails in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. There’s also a lot of history underneath those trails we walk along today. How were these trails established? Who blazed them, and why?

Some of the earliest trails in what would become the National Park were simple game trails created by migrating bison, elk, and other large animals. Many of these were later adapted by the Indians in the area. The Cherokee used these established routes for trading with other tribes and for reaching favored hunting grounds.

Over the years, with the steady encroachment of white settlers, many of these old Indian trails were converted into stock trails and wagon roads. By the late 1800’s, big lumber companies were converting Indian trails into logging roads and railroads to help with the harvest and transport of timber.

A few of these old settler roads eventually became the hiking trails we use today. If you hike along the Old Sugarlands Trail, the Little River Trail or the Miegs Mountain Trail, you’ll be walking on some of the same roads used by the pioneers and homesteaders of this area.

Some of the trails we use today were blazed by one pioneer in particular.

Wiley Oakley, also known as the “Roamin Man of the Mountains”, was born in 1885 at the base of Mount LeConte. Tragically, his mother died when he was a young boy. To help deal with his grief he began wandering the hollows and mountains near his home. Reflecting back as an older man, he spoke of how he would try to climb the highest peaks to see if he could catch a glimpse of her in heaven.

As he grew older, Wiley’s responsibilities also grew. At sill a relatively young age he began helping the family with hunting and fishing duties. It was during this time that he spent “roamin” and hunting that he was discovering the unique features of the mountains and was even blazing his own footpaths. Eventually he became a hunting and fishing guide, and gained such a renowned reputation that he was soon guiding politicians, celebrities and businessmen from all over the country, including Henry Ford.

During the Park’s formation, Wiley became a major consultant and was called on by surveyors to help determine Park boundaries. Some of those paths he blazed earlier in his life eventually became official park trails.

Another early explorer by the name of Paul Adams is credited with blazing the trail above Alum Cave up to Mount LeConte, as well as for helping to establish the famous lodge atop that same mountain.

Adams, an avid hiker, joined the Great Smoky Mountain Conservation Association in 1924, a group dedicated to making the Smoky Mountains into a national park. Later that same year, Adams led an expedition to the top of Mount LeConte for the purpose of showing Washington dignitaries the rugged beauty of the Smoky Mountains and to help promote the cause for national park status. The delegation spent the night in a large tent. The following year Adams would build a cabin on that same spot which eventually led to the establishment of the LeConte Lodge.

Although many trails in the Smoky Mountains follow all or parts of the routes developed by migrating animals, Indians, pioneers and explorers, the majority of the trails still in use today were developed by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC).

The CCC was a work relief program established in 1933 by President Franklin D. Roosevelt. As part of Roosevelt’s New Deal legislation, the CCC was created to combat unemployment during the Great Depression. Between 1933 and 1942, the CCC used 4000 men to build trails, campgrounds, bridges and ranger stations in the Smokies.

Some of those trails built by the CCC include Bullhead, Alum Cave, Kephart Prong, Sweat Heifer and Sugarland Mountain.

Since the early days of the Park, various hiking clubs have worked to improve the original CCC trails, and in some cases, construct new ones. One of those trails, the granddaddy of all trails, was the Appalachian Trail.

The Appalachian Trail, also known as the AT, runs for more than 70 miles through Great Smoky Mountains, entering from the north at Davenport Gap and exiting in the south near Fontana Dam. The highest point anywhere along the 2158 mile trail is at Clingmans Dome (6625 ft.). The trail also passes by other notable landmarks in the Smokies such as Charlies Bunion, Rocky Top and the historic stone fire tower atop Mt. Cammerer.

Although the AT was the brainchild of Benton MacKaye, cofounder of The Wilderness Society, it was Harvey Broome and Paul Fink that made it into a reality in the Smokies.

Harvey Broome was an early environmentalist, another one of the cofounders of The Wilderness Society, and a longtime president of the Smoky Mountains Hiking Club. He, along with seven others, hiked the 70+ miles of AT through the Park in 1932 before the trail was completed. He was largely responsible for sighting most of the AT thru the Park.

Paul Fink, another leader of the movement that led to the founding of the national park, was also instrumental in blazing the AT through the Smokies. Fink was a member of the Board of Managers of the Appalachian Trail from 1925 to 1949 and was the author of “Backpacking Was the Only Way”, an account of early 20th century camping and backpacking adventures in the southern Appalachians.

Over the years, the Park has closed certain trails for various reasons. In the future, it’s likely that other trails will be closed and new ones will be created, demonstrating that the park isn’t static, but a park that continues to evolve.

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Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed information on trails in the Smoky Mountains; includes trail descriptions, key features, pictures, video, maps, elevation profiles, news, hiking gear store, and more.
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Smokies Life Magazine Review

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

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I’m not into fishing, nor do I care for snakes, so why would I want to read anything about two subjects I really have no interest in? Those were my thoughts as I was handed the spring issue of Smokies Life Magazine after joining the Great Smoky Mountains Association (GSMA) in the Cades Cove parking lot last month.

Sure, I was eager to read the cover story about Wiley Oakley, but some of the other subjects just didn’t provide me with any excitement.

When I finally got around to reading the new magazine several days later, I started with the first article: Fishing the Horseshoe, by David Brill. Normally when I read a magazine I start from the beginning and read it book style – from page to page. If something doesn’t interest me, I skip through it. This didn’t happen with Mr. Brill’s article.

In fact, he almost inspired me to jump onto the Cabela’s web site that evening and purchase a fly-fishing rod. Okay, maybe I’m over-exaggerating a little, but the article was not only very well written, but was very captivating. You might be asking yourself right now how a story about fly-fishing can be captivating. “The Horseshoe”, also known as the Smokies toughest mile, is almost a complete circle formed by Abrams Creek. The unique topography of this area makes it difficult for anglers to escape the “Horseshoe” without completing the entire loop before the sun sets. Unless the fishermen who venture into the Horseshoe are in excellent shape, they stand the chance of having to make an emergency bivouac. Many hikers have apparently stumbled into this area and have gotten lost as well. At this point I’ll let the author finish the story for himself.

Proceeding through the rest of the magazine, I found each of the seven articles in this 59 page issue to be compelling articles in their own right. I also liked that the subject matter of the magazine was well diversified. In addition to the fly-fishing article, there were articles about snakes, bark baskets, trilliums, fire towers, old growth trees, and, of course, the Wiley Oakley story.

For the GSMA to call Smokies Life Magazine, “a magazine,” might be selling itself short. First off, the paper quality of the cover and the pages is far superior to any magazine you’ll find in a book store or grocery. I also found the writing to be superior to most magazines as well. Smokies Life Magazine is more in line with the quality you find from a journal publication from a historical society.

You can purchase individual issues of Smokies Life Magazine at the GSMA web site, but it probably makes more sense to just become a member. Not only is the quarterly magazine free to members, but you’re helping a great cause. Through sales, labor, donations, and volunteer efforts, the Great Smoky Mountains Association provides funds that help with certain Park expenses. Since its creation in 1953, GSMA has contributed more than $18 million to the Park.


Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com
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