Do hikers need to carry a gun now?

Do hikers need to carry a gun now?

Sunday, May 13, 2012

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Do hikers need to pack heat when venturing into the wilderness? I raise this question after reading about several violent acts in the wilderness within the last year. Allow me to list a few of these in chronological order:

* The FBI continues to search for the person(s) who murdered Scott Lilly on the Appalachian Trail in central Virginia. His “partially buried” body was found on August 12th of last year. The FBI recently announced a $10,000 reward for information leading to the arrest and conviction of the perpetrator(s).

* Last August, during a violent rampage, an Indiana man stabbed and killed a 76-year-old assistant Boy Scout leader while hiking with three others on a rail trail near Bunker Hill, IN.

* On September 25th, 2011, a female driving in the Nantahala National Forest stopped to render aid to a person she believed was incapacitated, while lying beside the road. At that time a firearm was used to subdue the victim, and then she was forcibly raped. As far as I know this case has not been solved.

* Last October an avid hiker was found dead on a trail in the San Luis Obispo area with severe trauma to his head and face - presumably murdered.

* Back in March there was the highly publicised case of two men disappearing in the Smokies - five days apart - without a trace. In both cases, officials dealt with conflicting clues and details. Did they commit suicide? Did they try to disappear without a trace? Were the two incidents in anyway connected - by someone who possibly kidnapped them and/or murdered them? No other clues in the two cases have emerged.

* Perhaps one of the most shocking incidents I've seen related to this subject is learning of two teenagers who were arrested in Utah this past April, after constructing booby traps on a popular trail near Provo.

* The most recent incident, which happened within the past week, and prompted this posting, was this:

It was a little before midnight Monday when Hensley said Unicoi County 911 received a call stating an individual was holding several hikers hostage at the Beauty Spot lookout on Unaka Mountain. Hensley, who took the call, said the caller stated the man had approached the group of five hikers with a handgun drawn, told them that he was a game warden, and ordered them to get down on their hands and knees. The 911 call, Hensley said, came from one of the hikers allegedly being taken hostage.

Two of the hostages happened to be U.S. Coast Guard officers, who were able to take the gun away, and then proceeded to hogtie the assailant!

In addition to these particular incidences, National Parks and the USFS have issued warnings from time to time about drug traffickers using parks to transport drugs, set-up meth labs, and even cultivate marijuana within park boundaries.

So in the words of the immortal Marvin Gaye: What's going on? Are these isolated incidences, or is there a trend we need to be aware of? Other than hiking in groups, taking self-defense classes, what else can hikers do to protect themselves while out on the trail?






Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com

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Forest Fire in Shenandoah causes Trail and Skyline Drive Closures

Forest Fire in Shenandoah causes Trail and Skyline Drive Closures

Monday, February 21, 2011

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A fire in the North District of Shenandoah National Park has resulted in closures of several trails and portions of Skyline Drive.

As a result of what is now known as the Smith Run Fire, Skyline Drive between Front Royal and Rt. 211 is now closed. The following trail closures are also in effect until further notice:

* Mt. Marshall Trail from Skyline Drive to the intersection at the Bluff Trail

* Appalachian Trail between Compton Gap and the Browntown Trail

* Lands Run Gap Fire Road

* Jenkins Gap Trail

The fire, located near Jenkins Gap near Milepost 12 on Skyline Drive, has burned approximately 1800 acres in the north district of Shenandoah National Park. It started on private property outside of the park boundary and was first reported at approximately 10:00 AM on Saturday, February 19. The fire's cause is currently unknown. The fire is moving on the surface of the forest floor where hardwood leaf litter and down trees have accumulated.

Beginning this morning, the interagency Southern Area Type 1 "Red" Incident Management Team will take over management of the fire. Roughly 78 fire personnel from a variety of state and federal land management agencies are currently fighting the fire. Along with the Smith Run Fire, the Red Team will also be taking over three fires now burning on the neighboring George Washington and Jefferson National Forest: the Pickle Branch Fire (325 acres) and the Coffman and Chestnut Ridge Fires (approximately 2,700 acres together). All four fires together will be managed as the Valley Complex.

The Smith Run Fire is estimated to be 15% contained. Fire managers will continue to build line and mop up with some burnout operations.

The rest of the park including the Skyline Drive from Thornton Gap (Rt. 211) south to Rockfish Gap (Rt. 250) remains open.


Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com

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Little River/Jakes Creek access road reopening delayed

Little River/Jakes Creek access road reopening delayed

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

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An update on the Great Smoky Mountains website is reporting that the Little River/Jakes Creek Trail access road in the Elkmont area will be closed to public use until October 23rd now.

The repaved road, with new parking areas near the Little River and Jakes Creek trailheads, was scheduled to reopen on October 15th.

For now, parking for trail users is available on an extremely limited basis at the walk-in camping area in B loop. There's a marked route through the campground to both trailheads.

Click for more information on hiking the popular Little River Trail and the Cucumber Gap Trail (from the Jakes Creek Trailhead).


Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com

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In a Quandary

In a Quandary

Saturday, October 2, 2010

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The main hiking objective of our recent trip out west was to summit Quandary Peak in central Colorado. At 14,265 feet, Quandary is the 13th highest peak in Colorado, and the highest mountain in the Tenmile Range.

According to 14ers.com the peak’s name comes from a group of miners who were unable to identify a mineral sample found on its slopes in the 1860s. The group was in a quandary over the exact nature of the mineral, and ended up naming the mountain from which it came, “Quandary Peak.”

Arriving at the trailhead near Hoosier Pass that morning, the temperature gauge read a chilly 36 degrees. After a long and very hot summer, this was a bit of a shock to the system.

Although it’s a relatively short hike, and has less elevation gain when compared to other Fourteeners, the trail still packs a punch. Much of the climbing occurs in two relatively short sections. One climbs 1300 feet over a 0.9-mile section roughly midway through the hike. The second climbs 1100 feet during the final 0.8-mile push to the top:

By the time we arrived at the summit the sun was already high in the sky, making the thin air feel relatively warm.



Although the views from the summit were quite spectacular, the highlight of the hike was coming face to face with a family of mountain goats. We first saw them from a distance hanging around the pathway several hundred yards up the trail. However, as we got closer, although curious, they didn’t move. In fact, the largest Billie (male goat) decided to lay down on the trail just as we got close enough to look into his eyes.

You could say that we were now “in a quandary” as to what to do next. We were just about to go off trail and walk around the road block, but noticed a group of hikers approaching from behind us. The sight of their dog provided the motivation for the goats to finally move out. Because we were on a fairly narrow ridgeline we basically followed the goats for about a quarter-of-a-mile until a group of hikers descending from above effectively forced them off the trail, and out of our way. Moving towards the edge of the ridge allowed me to get some great shots:



After our hike, on the way back to Buena Vista, we stopped in the town of Fairplay for an ice cream at an old-fashioned soda fountain joint. The town is an absolute hidden gem. Although it plays up its association with the popular South Park animated sitcom, it’s really a small, laid-back rustic town with an old west vibe. There were no signs of over-commercialization, nor do I recall seeing any national chains of any type. We really wished we could’ve spent some more time there, but Kathy was nursing a massive headache from the altitude and just wanted to take a nap.

Speaking of South Park, the drive though this region is extremely beautiful. There are two main roads that pass through this high elevation grassland basin that encompasses roughly 1,000 square miles; one takes you from Buena Vista to Denver (U.S. 285), while the other travels from Buena Vista to Colorado Springs (U.S. 24). In 2009 South Park was designated as a National Heritage Area.

Trail: Quandary Peak Trail
Round-trip Distance: 6.75 miles
Elevation Gain: 3,450 feet
Trailhead Elevation: 10,850 feet
Summit Elevation: 14,265 feet

The trailhead is located roughly 8 miles south of Breckenridge/14 miles north of Fairplay, on the north side of Hoosier Pass in the White River National Forest.















Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed trail information for the Great Smoky Mountains; trail descriptions, key features, pictures, maps, elevation profiles, news, books and more.

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The Cerro Grande Route

The Cerro Grande Route

Sunday, September 26, 2010

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Roughly 45 miles northwest of Santa Fe are the ancient ruins and deep canyons of Bandelier National Monument. Designated as a national monument in 1916, Bandelier preserves the homes of the Ancestral Pueblo people.

Archeological surveys show that the Ancestral Pueblos began building permanent settlements in Bandelier by 1150, but had moved to new homes along the Rio Grande by 1550.

The main portion of the park, in Frijoles Canyon, contains a number of ancestral homes and dwellings, kivas (circular, half-buried ceremonial structures), rock paintings and petroglyphs.

The last time we visited Bandelier we spent most of our time in Frijoles Canyon. This time we decided to hike the Cerro Grande Route, a trail located in the fairly isolated northwestern corner of the park. This “Route” offers a much different experience as compared to the rest of Bandelier. Instead of canyons and deserts, the trail explores the subalpine and montane forests of the Jemez Mountains.

Destination for the “Route” is the top of Cerro Grande Peak, Spanish for “Big Mountain”, which at 10,199 feet in elevation is the highest point in the park. The path alternates through open meadows, aspen groves and pine forests. Even in mid-September we still saw a wide variety of wildflowers.

Through the first sections of trail we noticed a fair amount of evidence of the Cerro Grande Fire that burned 48,000 acres in 2000. The fire started as a controlled burn by the Forest Service, but got out of control as a result of high winds and eventually destroyed 235 homes in the Los Alamos area. By no means, however, does the fading damage detract from the sublime beauty of this hike.

Be sure to look for elk, in addition to the mule deer and pikas we saw along the way.

Most of the climbing comes in the last three quarters-of-a-mile or so. The hike ends at a fairly open meadow at the summit of the peak – it would be called a bald if it were in the Southern Appalachians. From the top you can see the Valles Caldera, the Sangro de Cristo Mountains and the Sandia Mountains. Actually, the views are much better just a couple hundred feet below the summit.

Cerro Grande Peak forms part of the rim of the Valles Caldera, a twelve-mile-wide crater that formed when the earth collapsed after a catastrophic volcanic eruption took place here roughly 1.2 million years ago – very similar to how Yellowstone was created.

The prominent valley that dominates the view from the top is known as the Valle Grande. In the center of the caldera, and on the far end of the Valle Grande, is Redondo Peak, which, geologically speaking, is a volcanic resurgent dome. Although no longer active, it was formed roughly 70,000 years after the main caldera-forming eruptions occurred.

Several movies have been shot in and around the Valles Caldera, including The Gambler, Buffalo Girls, Last Stand at Saber River, The Missing and most recently, Seraphim Falls, which starred Liam Neeson and Pierce Brosnan.

In a couple of days I’ll be posting a report from our Tsankawi Loop hike, which is located in a separated section of Bandelier that took us up close to several cave dwellings and petroglyphs.

Trail: Cerro Grande Route
RT Distance: 4 miles
Elevation Gain: 1300 feet
Max Elevation: 10,199 feet
TH Location: 11.6 miles past the entrance to the Visitors Center














Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed trail information for the Great Smoky Mountains; trail descriptions, key features, pictures, maps, elevation profiles, news, books and more.

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The Top of Texas

The Top of Texas

Thursday, September 23, 2010

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After staying in Van Horn the night before, we made the 60-mile drive north in the early morning darkness. My goal was to arrive just outside of Guadalupe Mountains National Park in order to a get a photo of El Capitan just as the sun begins to shine on the dramatic rock face of the mountain that stands at the southern terminus of the Guadalupe range.

With an elevation of 8,749 feet, Guadalupe Peak is the highest point in Texas, and, is the 14th highest state high point. It’s also one of only four state highpoints that’s located within a national park - Denali, Mount Rainier and Clingmans Dome being the other three.

The hardest part of the hike is at the very beginning in which the trail ascends a series of switchbacks over the course of the first mile-and-a-half or so. Hikers can use the parking lot and the highway far below to gauge their progress.

During this first section the trail climbs the east face of the peak, which means hikers are fully exposed to the hot desert sun. I highly recommend starting this hike before sunrise in order to knock-out as much of this section as possible during the relative cool of the morning. It's also a good idea to start early so that you’ll have time to get off the mountain before summer afternoon thunderstorms arrive.

At roughly 7000 feet in elevation, and 1.7 miles from the trailhead, the trail skirts a relatively narrow ledge. Although not exceedingly dangerous, you'll still want to take your time through this short section of trail. Just beyond this point the switchbacks mercifully come to an end (although they'll inflict more pain on the way down). Soon the trail winds around the other side of the mountain and reaches some much appreciated shade. From here the grade became much easier and remained relatively moderate for the rest of the hike.

As we traveled upward we saw numerous Northern Harriers flying just above us. Up at the summit we also saw a few Golden Eagles and a couple of Peregrine Falcons soaring and gliding on the thermal updrafts.

At the second cliff section:

The photo above includes a young man from New Zealand and his girlfriend getting ready to cross the highest bridge in Texas. Just days before a 7.1 magnitude earthquake hit near his hometown just outside of Christchurch. It took a day or two, but he finally received confirmation that his entire family was alright. He said his dad, who happens to be a building inspector, was keeping extremely busy in the aftermath of the quake. Coincidentally, the young Kiwi just happens to work as a rafting guide on the Pigeon River in Tennessee.

Just past the bridge we began the final climb to the top. Over the last quarter mile route finding became a little difficult. We made the same mistake a guy in front us made by missing the trail as it heads-off towards the right. Consequently, we took a route that required a little bit of scrambling. No big deal, it just would’ve been easier had we stayed on the main trail.

At the summit is a stainless steel memorial that was erected by American Airlines in 1958 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Butterfield Overland Mail Route, a 2800-mile stagecoach route that passed on the south side of the mountain. On one side of the pyramid is the American Airlines logo. Another side displays a U.S. Postal Service tribute to the Pony Express Riders of the Butterfield Stage. The third displays a compass with the logo of the Boy Scouts of America.

From the summit we could see a line of thick high clouds extending from one end of the horizon to the other in the far off distance (they say you can see more than 100 miles away). These were likely the leading bands of Hurricane Hermine that was pummeling central and east Texas that day.

Although the hurricane had no impact on our hike, hikers should always expect high winds on the mountain – especially during the winter months when winds can exceed 80 MPH on a fairly regular basis.

Looking towards the north from the summit:

Looking down on El Capitan and Highway 62/180 far below:

The park also recommends that you take a full gallon of water. I only took about 100 ounces, thinking that would be enough given the relatively cool weather that day. I barely had enough, however. During peak summer months I would definitely take the parks’ recommendation of one full gallon.

One final note about this part of the country: After our hike we had planned to attend the Evening Star Party at the McDonald Observatory 65 miles south of Van Horn. Every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday the observatory invites the public to view the universe through 16 and 22-inch telescopes located atop Mount Locke and Mount Fowlkes (6300-6800 feet). The observatory in the remote Davis Mountains offers some of the darkest night skies in the continental United States. Unfortunately Hurricane Hermine wasn’t going to allow that to happen that night. As the early evening progressed the clouds continued to thicken, so we decided to cancel our plans. However, we did hear a lot of great things about the program and sounds like it would be a great excursion if you’re in the area.

Trail: Guadalupe Peak Trail
RT Distance: 8.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 2927 feet
Max Elevation: 8749 feet




























Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed trail information for the Great Smoky Mountains; trail descriptions, key features, pictures, maps, elevation profiles, news, books and more.

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Photos from the trail

Photos from the trail

Thursday, June 17, 2010

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Below are several photos from the three trails we hiked during our recent visit to the Great Smoky Mountains.

The footbridge over the Rough Fork of the Cataloochee Creek is located near the Caldwell Fork Trailhead. According to Hiking Great Smoky Mountains by Rodney and Priscilla Albright, it's the longest footbridge in the Great Smoky Mountains:

While hiking the Boogerman Loop we saw three snakes - I nearly stepped on two of them:

Beautiful forest scene on the loop hike:

One of many fire pinks we saw on the Boogerman Loop:

As mentioned in a post last week, we encountered a lot of rain during our hike to Hen Wallow Falls. We were extremely fortunate to have a 15 minute break in the rain just as we arrived at the falls, allowing us to enjoy them and shoot a few pictures:

Lots of green on the Lumber Ridge Trail out of Tremont:

There were a few places along Lumber Ridge that provided views of the surrounding mountains through the trees:

There were also quite a few small azaleas bushes that were in full bloom along the trail as well:


For more information and more details on each of these hikes, please click on the following links:

* Boogerman Loop Hike

* Hen Wallow Falls

* Lumber Ridge Trail



Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed information on trails in the Smoky Mountains; includes trail descriptions, key features, pictures, video, maps, elevation profiles, news, and more.

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Contruction season in the Smokies to begin Monday

Contruction season in the Smokies to begin Monday

Thursday, February 25, 2010

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As part of the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act, and the Federal Lands Highway Program, several park improvement projects will be conducted in the Great Smoky Mountains this year.

Beginning this Monday, and lasting throughout the spring and summer, over $93,300,000 worth of improvements will be made to park roads and facilities.

The park has recently published a summary of the projects, which includes project details, as well as road and trail closures.

Beginning on Monday, March 1, the first major project to kick-off the season will be the repavement of the Cades Cove Loop Road. Here's the complete list of projects and expected closures:

• Cades Cove Loop Road will be closed to all public use from March 1 thru May 21 for repaving. This will impact the Forge Creek Road, Parson Branch Road and Rich Mountain Road, as well as the Abrams Falls Trail, Cooper Road Trail, Gregory Bald Trail, Gregory Ridge Trail, Hannah Mountain Trail, Indian Grave Gap Trail and Rabbit Creek Trail.

• Clingmans Dome Road will be closed to all public use through May 28 for repaving. This will impact the Fork Ridge Trail, Forney Creek Trail, Forney Ridge Trail (Andrews Bald), Noland Divide Trail, Road Prong Trail, Sugarland Mountain Trail.

• Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail will be closed to all public use through May 28 for repaving. This will impact the Baskins Creek Trail, Grapeyard Ridge Trail, Trillium Gap Trail.

• Cherokee Orchard Road past the Noah Bud Ogle Cabin will be closed to all public use through March 19. This will impact the Bullhead Trail, Old Sugarlands Trail, Rainbow Falls Trail, Trillium Gap Trail.

• The Sinks parking area on Little River Road closed through May 25 for repaving. This will impact the Meigs Creek Trail.

• Smokemont Campground will be closed March 10 - May 27, 2010. This will impact the Bradley Fork Trail and the Smokemont Loop Trail.

• Heintooga Ridge Road and Balsam Mountain Campground will be closed until May 27, 2010. This will impact the Flat Creek Trail, Rough Fork Trail, Hemphill Bald Trail.

• Little River and Jakes Creek Trailhead. Portions of the area will be closed to public use from July 6-August 31, 2010, impacting the Little River Trail and Jakes Creek Trail.

• Other projects include the Foothills Parkway East and West, the Gatlinburg By-Pass Road, and Newfound Gap from Collins Creek Picnic Area to Cherokee, NC.

Here's a map of all the park improvement projects. Please click on the map for a larger view:


For more information on each of these proejcts, please click here.



Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed information on trails in the Smoky Mountains; includes trail descriptions, key features, pictures, video, maps, elevation profiles, news, and more.

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Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage hiking schedule

Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage hiking schedule

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

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As mentioned last week, the 60th annual Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage in Great Smoky Mountains National Park will take place from April 21 thru April 25 this year - provided that the snow and cold weather decides to move out of here sometime before then.

As mentioned in that post, program details weren't yet released by the Great Smoky Mountains Association at that point. However, just yesterday, the GSMA updated their website with the complete program schedule.

Included in this year's Pilgrimage are several wildflower walks and hikes. Some are easy, and some are all-day stenuous hikes. Below is a list of most (but not all) of the hikes included on this year's schedule. Many of these are scheduled on multiple days.

* Albright Grove
* Appalachian Trail (2 miles)
* Appalachian, Fork Ridge and Deep Creek Trails
* Ash Hopper Branch
* Baskins Creek Trail
* Chestnut Top Trail
* Cove Hardwood Nature Trail
* Cucumber Gap Trail
* Gabes Mountain Trail
* Grapeyard Ridge Trail
* Grassy Balds - Russell and Spence Fields
* Injun Creek Trail
* Kanati Fork Trail
* Little River Trail
* Long Bunk, Mt. Sterling, and Little Cataloochee Trails
* Lynn Camp Prong
* Noah "Bud" Ogle Trail
* Oconaluftee River Trail
* Old Settlers Trail
* Old Sugarlands
* Porters Creek Trail
* Ramsey Cascades Trail
* Road Prong Trail
* Snake Den Ridge - Appalachian trail Low Gap Trail
* Sweat Heifer Trail to Kephart Prong
* Tremont to Elkmont
* Thomas Divide to Kanati Fork
* West Prong Trail
* White Oak Sinks

To see the complete Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage schedule, please click here.

On-line registration will begin March 9 and end April 17.


Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed information on trails in the Smoky Mountains; includes trail descriptions, key features, pictures, video, maps, elevation profiles, news, and more.

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Cocktails for the trail

Cocktails for the trail

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

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If you're going to be backpacking over New Years, Backpacker Magazine has a list of cocktail recipes to help ring in the new year. Who says you can't join in with the rest of the world as 2009 fades into history.

Many of the drinks require fresh snow, and in one case, hailstones?!?!

1. Mountain Margarita
2. Watermelon Snowfield
3. Bikini Sunburn
4. Mountain Storm
5. Snake in the Grass
6. Blackberry Margarita
7. Backcountry Mai Tai
8. Goodnight Kiss
9. Wilderness White Russian
10. Under the Sleeping Bag

Please click here to see the recipes.


Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed information on trails in the Smoky Mountains; includes trail descriptions, key features, pictures, video, maps, elevation profiles, news, hiking gear store, and more.

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Hike Report: Gilpin Lake Loop

Hike Report: Gilpin Lake Loop

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

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The Gilpin Lake / Gold Creek Lake Loop in the Mount Zirkel Wilderness Area is an extremely popular hike; and for good reason. My wife, brother and I tackled this hike while on vacation in August of 2008.

The Mount Zirkel Wilderness is located in north-central Colorado near the town of Steamboat Springs, and lies within the Routt National Forest. With the passing of the Wilderness Act in 1964, Mt. Zirkel was among the first designated wilderness areas in the country.

From the Slavonia Trailhead, about a 30 minute drive from Steamboat Springs, we started down the Gilpin Lake Trail (trail 1161) before reaching the Gold Creek Lake Trail junction less than a quarter-mile into the hike. For this loop, I would recommend taking the Gold Creek Lake Trail (trail 1150) first.

Throughout the early portions of our hike we noticed some of the devastation from the freak windstorm that struck the area in 1997. Known as the Routt Divide Blowdown, winds in excess of 120 miles per hour were recorded during the height of the early winter storm. The devastating force of the storm brought down more than four million trees within a swathe of land 5 miles wide and 30 miles long. The Routt Divide Blowdown is the largest blowdown ever recorded in the Rocky Mountains.

Along the route to Gold Creek Lake we passed a nice 35-foot waterfall:

At roughly 2.8 miles from the trailhead we reached Gold Creek Lake, an 8 acre lake surrounded by fir and lodgepole pine. The trail skirts around the western and northern side of the lake, offering several different vantage points. Hikers should note that the lake is a very popular destination.


The next major destination on the loop is a huge meadow below Ute Pass. This glacially carved valley is an outstanding place to relax or do a little exploring. Looking towards the east, the prominent backdrop to the valley is Flattop Mountain, Ute Pass and the Continental Divide.

Beyond the meadow you’ll reach another fork in the trail where you’ll be turning left onto the Gilpin Lake Trail. From here the trail climbs up to the top of Gilpin Ridge.

At the top of pass you’ll have your first views of Gilpin Lake. The view of the deep blue, alpine lake is stunning and dramatic – one of the best in the Rockies. You’ll also have your first views of Mt. Zirkel and Big Agnes Mountain. At 12,180 feet, Mount Zirkel is the highest peak in the wilderness area, and is one of 15 peaks over 12,000 feet in elevation.

From here the trail descends rapidly towards the lake. Through this section and just below the lake we saw a variety of wildflowers.

Although the lake looks like a blue sapphire from 450 feet above, it’s actually crystal clear when viewed from the shoreline.

After passing Gilpin Lake, the trail generally follows Gilpin Creek for most of the way back to the trailhead. After passing a few more wildflower-filled meadows, the path descends back below tree-line before eventually passing through a beautiful grove of aspens.

After a long day on the trail we made a beeline to the Old Town Pub for some wings and beer.

With a mixture of western flavor and yuppie ski resort status, Steamboat Springs seems to be a nice enough town. The town does have a bit of pretentiousness about it, but not nearly as bad as other Colorado ski towns such as Vail, Breckinridge or Aspen. Filthy Rich Cattle Drive, the CMT reality series you may recall from a couple of years back, was filmed in and around the town.

I'm definitely planning to return to hike the Gilpin Lake Loop again, as well as some of the other trails in the wilderness area. With close to 170 miles of trails in Mt. Zirkel, there’s still a lot of exploring to do.

Gilpin Lake / Gold Creek Loop
RT Miles: 9.9 miles
Elevation Gain: 2370 feet
Max Elevation: 10,790 feet




Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed information on trails in the Smoky Mountains; includes trail descriptions, key features, pictures, video, maps, elevation profiles, news, hiking gear store, and more.

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Grizzly Encounter on Avalanche Peak

Grizzly Encounter on Avalanche Peak

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

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During the late summer of 2001, Kathy and I spent our vacation in Yellowstone National Park. One of our prime hiking destinations for the week was a climb up 10,566-foot Avalanche Peak, located about eight miles from the park’s east entrance. We put this hike at the top of our itinerary because it’s one of the higher peaks in Yellowstone, and it didn’t require any technical skills to reach the summit.

Instead of the pleasant weather we had experienced over the previous few days, we were greeted by dark threatening skies the morning of this particular hike. We decided it might be a good idea to stop at the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center to get an updated weather forecast before setting off.

The ranger at the visitor center, although friendly and very helpful, dampened our spirits even more. Not only was there a good chance of rain for the day, but she also warned us about the high level of grizzly bear activity in the Avalanche Peak area. Indigenous to this part of the park are whitebark pine trees, which, in late summer, produce seeds that are rich in fat. The seeds are one of the preferred foods for grizzlies as they fatten-up for the winter, thus attracting them to this area during the late summer and fall.

At this point we were a bit leery about our prospects for hiking this trail.

Maybe we sound like a couple of “Chicken Little’s”, but being from the Midwest we’re not really accustomed to hiking in areas where we’re second on the food chain. Hiking in black bear country doesn’t bother me, but grizzlies definitely make me nervous. Despite our limited experience in grizzly country, we were aware that hiking in numbers tends to increase the safety factor. We decided to drive up to the trailhead to see how many cars were in the parking lot. If it looked like we were going to be the only hikers on the trail that day, we decided we would look for another trail elsewhere in the park.

We were relieved to see several cars in the parking lot at Eleanor Lake.

However, as we began packing our lunch and gear, it started to drizzle. The drizzle quickly turned into a downpour. For nearly a half-hour we waited in our car until the clouds finally started to break. Just as the rain was ending, another couple pulled into the lot next to us. We thought this to be a good omen. With the additional company on the trail, we felt a little more at ease about hiking in grizzly country.

We set off with our new friends in a light misty drizzle. Our companions, we found out, were a couple of summer park employees working in the Mammoth Hot Springs area. What a great way to spend your leisure time while working in one of the most beautiful places on Earth.

Almost immediately the trail begins ascending the mountain, climbing through a dense, lush-green forest of spruce and fir trees. Even though the trail isn’t marked on the official park map, it appeared to be well maintained and was clearly visible along the entire route.

As the trail steepened, the pace of our companions started to slow, so Kathy and I moved on without them. By this time it was becoming increasingly apparent that the hike up Avalanche Peak isn’t for the faint of heart. The trail gains 2100 feet in just 2.5 miles, which translates into a grade of nearly 16%! To make matters worse, the trail is characterized by a lack of switchbacks, which means there aren’t a lot of flat sections to rest legs and lungs as you make your ascent.

About a half-mile from the summit we reached a meadow right above the tree line - just at the base of the bowl under Avalanche Peak. We noticed four hikers descending the mountain about 150 yards up the trail from where we stood. About 200 yards above them, I saw what I assumed to be another hiker, dressed in brown from head-to-toe, cross over the trail. It took me a second or two to realize that what I was actually looking at was an adult grizzly bear moving towards the east. I yelled a warning to the four hikers between us and the bear. The bear also heard me and looked a little startled as he stopped to check us out.

The summit of Avalanche Peak is in the far right corner of picture. That small dark spot right in the middle of the picture, just above the copse of trees, is the grizzly bear.

At this point we were a little undecided as to what to do next. Do we turn around and head back down the mountain, or do we move up the trail to join the company of the other hikers for more safety? As we stood there mulling over our options, the bear suddenly became visibly agitated with my wife and I. Abruptly, he crouched down on his front legs and faced directly towards us. There was no misunderstanding his body language or the menacing glare he gave us; he wanted us off HIS mountain! Not to offend him further, we calmly started to back away. Fortunately, so did the bear. Just as quickly as he faced us down, did he turn away and continue his eastward procession towards a grove of scrub pines. The bear was obviously more interested in stuffing his belly with pine seeds rather than a couple of hikers.

Feeling a little bolder, we walked up the trail to join the other hikers while we watched the bear indulge in a favored delicacy. After watching for several minutes, the two park employees we met earlier finally joined us. As we all stood there, the bear finally wandered over to the other side of the mountain. We now had another important decision to make: do we take the safe route down the mountain with the group of four, or do we go ahead and summit the mountain with our park employee companions. Our high altitude conference concluded that if all four of us stayed together it would be relatively safe to continue on.

Our decision to move forward proved to be an excellent one. With our periodic clapping and yelling of “hey bear”, much to our relief, we never saw the bear again. Even the weather cooperated with us. The overcast, drizzly conditions we experienced on the lower part of the mountain now gave way to billowing white clouds against the backdrop of a cobalt-blue sky. The final push to the top was a fairly easy scramble along the rocky ridgeline of Avalanche Peak. At the summit we were rewarded with an incredibly spectacular view of Yellowstone Lake to the west, the Absaroka Range to the north and east, and the Grand Tetons in the far off distance towards the south.

I’ve made several trips out west over the years and have had the opportunity to hike in some of the best parks and wilderness areas in Colorado, Utah, Montana and Wyoming. Not only was our trek up Avalanche Peak the highlight of our Yellowstone trip, but was undoubtedly one the most memorable hikes I’ve ever had. The combination of stunning scenery and the chance encounter with a grizzly bear made this a wilderness experience of a lifetime.

Avalanche Peak
RT Miles: 5
Elevation Gain: 2100 feet
Max Elevaton: 10,566





Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed information on trails in the Smoky Mountains; includes trail descriptions, key features, pictures, video, maps, elevation profiles, news, hiking gear store, and more.

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RMNP Day 6: Ypsilon Lake

RMNP Day 6: Ypsilon Lake

Friday, September 25, 2009

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With temperatures hovering around freezing, this was by far the coldest morning yet. Our windshield had frost on it, while the upper elevations received some light snow the day and night before.

After passing a red fox walking along the road we reached the Lawn Lake trailhead. Hikers to Ypsilon Lake share the same path to Lawn Lake for the first 1.4 miles.

At just over a mile you’ll reach the Roaring River where you’ll witness the destruction from the Lawn Lake Flood. On July 15, 1982, a 26 foot high earthen dam failed, releasing 220 million gallons of water down the Roaring River valley which some witnesses said created a wall of water 25 to 30 feet high.

The dam was built in 1903 to enhance the natural lake from 16.4 acres to 48 surface acres so that it could be used to irrigate crops in the Loveland area.

After killing three campers, the water rushed down Elkhorn Avenue in Estes Park before stopping at Lake Estes. In all, damages to the area totaled roughly $31 million.

Sections of the Roaring River’s high gully walls are still unstable and prone to sudden collapse.

Here’s a view from the road below (known as the Alluvial Fan):

From the beginning, this hike is a steady climb for most of the way as it takes you through deep pine forest. During the first two miles or so you’ll catch sporadic views of Longs Peak and the mountains surrounding the Horseshoe Park area.

At just over 3.5 miles, the trail finally flattens out, peaking at roughly 10,760 feet. After descending a short distance you’ll reach a very beautiful pond known as Chipmunk Lake, which I found to be far more scenic than Ypsilon Lake. From the pond’s shore you’ll have outstanding views of Ypsilon Mountain, including the snow-filled Y-looking couloirs, from which the mountain derives its name.

After passing the pond, the trail begins to drop again, including a fairly steep decline just before reaching the lake. At 4.5 miles you’ll reach the western shore of Ypsilon Lake. To get the best views of the surrounding mountains, take the social trail to the opposite side of the lake.

The lake sits at the base of Ypsilon and Chiquita Mountains in the heart of the Mummy Range, and is fed by a waterfall close to where the trail intersects with the lake. It’s a nice waterfall; however, the park service is trying to rest the area and apparently doesn’t want you to visit it at this point in time. Unfortunately I didn’t notice the sign until after we left. A couple had stopped to chat with us as we were arriving, which is probably why I missed it.

Trail: Ypsilon Lake
RT Distance: 9 miles
Elevation Gain: 2375
Max Elevation: 10,760

National Geographic Trail Map for RMNP:

Jeff
HikingintheSmokys.com Detailed information on trails in the Smoky Mountains; includes trail descriptions, key features, pictures, video, maps, elevation profiles, news, hiking gear store, and more.

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