Thursday, December 16, 2010

Top Unique Reasons for Hiking in the Southern Appalachians

What makes hiking in the Southern Appalachian Mountains so special? Or, put another way, what are the things that make hiking in the Southern Appalachians unique?

I’ve been giving these questions some thought for sometime now, and have come up with a list of eight reasons that set the Southern Appalachians apart from the rest of the country. I must admit that some of these are not totally unique, but nonetheless are fairly rare, thus making them distinctive in terms of a hiking feature.

Here’s my list, in descending order:

8) Roan Mountain Goats: Grassy balds in the Great Smoky Mountains, such as Gregory and Andrews, require occasional mowing in order to prevent trees from reclaiming them. On Roan Mountain, however, they use goats!

For the last three years scientists have been testing the use of goats as a measure for keeping the more than 1000 acres of grassy balds in tact. The use of goats may help Roan Mountain in two ways: they appear to be far more economical than mowing, and there’s speculation that goats will actually help promote the germination of the rare Gray's Lily wildflower.

Known as the “Baa-tany Goat Project,” the goats are surrounded by a solar-powered electric fence from July thru September. The enclosure covers a one-half to one acre plot, and is moved every week or two as the goats deplete the vegetation growth.

For the past couple of years the Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy has been leading guided Goat Hikes on Roan Mountain, thus offering the public an excellent opportunity to see the goats in action and learn about their role in preserving the grassy balds.

7) Fire Lookout Towers: The Southern Appalachians are littered with old fire towers, remnants of a bygone era when rangers climbed their perches to look for wildfires in their respective patrol areas. Most of the towers were abandoned in the 1960s when it was decided that planes could monitor the mountains more economically.

Today, fire lookout towers have become popular hiking destinations, thanks in part to Peter Barr, author of Hiking North Carolina’s Lookout Towers, and the Carolina Mountain Club’s official hiking challenge of reaching 24 lookout towers in Western North Carolina. Many of the towers are still accessible, allowing hikers to soak in the 360-degree views from their prominent vantage points.

Some of the more notable fire towers in the Southeast in terms of architecture include Duckett Top Lookout Tower on Rich Knob in the Pisgah National Forest, Wayah Bald in the Nantahala National Forest, and of course the Mt. Cammerer fire tower in the Smokies.

6) Trail Days in Damascus: Trail Days is the annual Woodstock for hikers. It’s the mother of all hiking gatherings. It’s a celebration of all things Appalachian Trail. And it all happens in tiny Damascus, Virginia, also known as Trail Town, USA where the Appalachian Trail, the Virginia Creeper and the Iron Mountain Trail slice through the middle of town. Each year Damascus becomes the destination point for thousands of thru-hikers, veteran hikers and those who just love hiking and the Appalachian Trail. Trail Days is recognized as the largest trail event in the world, and many A.T. thru-hikers will time their hike in order to be in town in mid-May for the annual three day festival.

5) The LeConte Lodge: Although there are a handful of other national parks that offer hike-in lodging, one of the great traditions in the Great Smoky Mountains is overnighting in the lodge sitting near the top of 6,593-foot Mount LeConte. For those that don’t like backpacking, the lodge offers an excellent opportunity to enjoy a backcountry experience in relative luxury (compared to roughing it!). The LeConte Lodge also has a sister lodge at Big South Fork (Charit Creek) where the only access is hiking in as well. One other backcountry lodge in the southeast worth mentioning is the Len Foote Hike Inn at Amicalola Falls State Park in Georgia.

4) Azaleas, Mountain Laurel & Rhododendron: One of the great annual events in the Southern Appalachians is the spectacular Azalea, Mountain Laurel and Rhododendron blooms of late spring. For some of the best examples of these beautiful displays of Mother Nature, hike up to Gregory Bald in mid-to-late June to check out the world famous Azaleas that grow atop the 10-acre bald. Spence Field near Rocky Top has the finest display of Mountain Laurel that I’ve ever seen. Early-to-mid June is the best time to visit when they’re usually reaching peak bloom. For Rhododendron, your best bet is Roan Mountain which has the largest natural rhododendron garden in the world. Count on peak blooms arriving around mid-to-late June.

3) Natural Bridges & Sandstone Arches: With places like Arches and Canyonlands National Park, it’s likely that Utah is more synonymous with natural bridges in the minds of most people. However, hikers shouldn’t forget the abundance of natural bridges and sandstone arches that permeate the Southern Appalachians. The Red River Gorge Geological Area in the Daniel Boone National Forest has over 100 natural arches, making it the greatest concentration of arches east of the Rocky Mountains. The Big South Fork region also contains one of the highest concentrations of natural bridges in the eastern U.S., including the largest sandstone arches in the east. Other notable arches include Natural Bridge in Virginia - a National Historical Landmark, and Sewanee Natural Bridge in Tennessee.

2) The Appalachian Trail: It may not be the longest anymore, nor the most scenic, but it will always be the most iconic trail in the world. The Appalachian Trail, America's first National Scenic Trail, is one the most popular trails for day-hikers and thru-hikers alike. An estimated 4 million people hike at least part of it each year. My guess is that most of them know it’s one of the best ways to see and explore the scenic wonders of the Appalachian Mountains.

1) Grassy Balds: One of the great mysteries of the Southern Appalachians is whether or not the treeless mountain tops and ridges, known as “balds,” are natural or if they were manmade. For hikers, does it really matter? Balds provide outstanding vantage points for sweeping panoramic vistas of the Appalachian Mountains. Some of the balds with the best views in the Smokies include Gregory, Andrews, Spence Field and Rocky Top. Outside of the Smokies, hikers should check out Roan Mountain, Max Patch, Mt. Rogers, Shining Rock, Cheoah Bald, Big Bald or Black Balsam.

So, Southern Appalachians hikers, are there any others that need to be added to this list?



TandR said...


All great reasons indeed. LeConte Lodge is definitely a treat. Robin and I hiked up in the Spring this year and stayed a night and had an absolute blast. Even hiking back down the next morning in the rain was enjoyable. The rain and Misty Mountain look of the Smokies is rather majestic.

One other reason I can think of are the bountiful Rock Houses in Big South Fork, not to mention the remoteness of most of our parks and natural areas especially here in Tennessee.

Keep up the great work on the blog.


Smoky Mountain Hiker said...

Tim - thank you very much. I assume what you mean regarding the "Rock Houses" in BSF, are the rock overhangs that form natural shelters - similar to Alum Cave?

You're right, I should've specifically mentioned them. Actually I should've lumped them in with the sandstone arches that make up all the interesting geological features of the BSF and Red River Gorge areas.

My understanding is that many of those sandstone cliffs will one day turn into arches, before eventually disintegrating completely (thousands of years from now).


My Life Outdoors said...

I'm ashamed to say I used to turn my nose up at the Appalachians claiming they were more hills then mountains. I grew up taking multiple trips to the rockies and thought the Appalachians just couldn't compare. Of course I had never seen them for myself. My wife grew up in Tenn and most of my Appalachian jabs were to get under her skin. Since visiting the Appalachians myself...I have been fascinated by their beauty you point out...uniqueness. I long to go back. unfortunately its close to a 20 hour drive to the Appalachians. Were as I can get to the Rockies in under 3 hours. Sigh!!

Danny Bernstein said...

I moved to Asheville, NC almost 10 years ago to hike - and that's what I do. I hike, write about hiking, do conservation work .....
No matter where you live in the southern Appalachians, you can go on a dayhike, leave after breakfast, hike for 10 ++ miles and be back for dinner.
You can repeat this day after day.
The dayhiking is superb

TandR said...

@Jeff - Yes, the Shelters are exactly what I mean by Rock houses. I think the best ones I've seen so far are the ones on the Honey Creek Loop in the southern part of the Big South Fork. Absolutely splendid. Good thing the disintegration of these won't happen in our lifetime.

@Steven - Yeah, you never want to underestimate the power of the Appalachians. :P Actually I've only ever seen the Rockies, never really hiked them so I really don't have a comparison other than a trail in Glacier National Park. However, I have been reading a backpacking book here recently and the author claims that the trails out here are definitely tougher than the trails out west for the simple reason that the trails out west were built with animals and the like in mind. Several switchbacks going up a mountain as compared to the straight up mountains you see more often than not here in the Appalachians.